Southern Drakensberg (Sani Pass Region, South Africa)

March 30^th, 2011 (January 2011) – After Kosi Bay we headed south to St. Lucia Estuary located within the boundary of iSimangaliso Wetland Park. It is a beautiful area and well worth a visit. Unfortunately, the campsite was crowded and overpriced (high season) but the surrounding area in the estuary and along the coast are quite pleesant. The beach front near the campsite is remarkable as well but given the condition of our skin (crispy that is) we were in no mood to sunbathe.  

Along the way I noticed a curious creature in the road and stopped to have a look. It was my favorite lizard, Mr. Chameleon. I don’t think I will ever tire of watching these strange beasts. Everything about them is intriguing right down to their unmistakable ‘stutter-step-robot-dance’ way of moving, not to mention eyes that rotate 360 degrees independently of each other. Thankfully, this would not be our last encounter.

As we continued further south we decided to take a look at Richard’s Bay as someone we’d met recommended it. We had a hard time determining why. It is an industrial hub and boasts the largest coal export facility in the world. That’s as sexy as it gets. We checked out a couple of unappealing campsites, stopped for lunch along the water, and got the F out of Dodge. It wasn’t easy. More road construction. I tried several escape routes but to no avail. We were stuck in traffic for over an hour in our non air-conditioned vehicle ruing our decision to detour. Patience is a virtue. It really is. No, really.

Central/Upper Berg (Drakensberg, South Africa)

April 3^rd, 2011 (January 2011) – We left the Sani Pass area and began our foray through the back roads of central Drakensburg.  Although we had a map and some vague idea as to where we were it felt a little like we’d entered East Jesus. Small villages and large swaths of farmland were all we encountered for a couple of hours. It was beautiful but a bit unsettling at the same time. 

Driving a VW Polo along a empty dirt road (we did pass what appeared to be two other tourists in a small red car at one point) can leave one thinking about the possibility of a breakdown. Sure Avis provides 24 hour roadside assistance but they’d have to find our stupid asses first. And I would not describe the Polo as all-terrain so we had to tread lightly.

Eventually, we made our way to the town of Winterton where we decided to splurge on a room for two nights. Leslie was still not 100% and I was starting to feel a bit under the weather. The prescription was a comfortable bed and a flat screen television. Yeeesss. After a good night’s sleep we drove some 30 km into Champagne Valley and went for a short hike in the Monks Cowl area. We had planned on doing a more extensive jaunt but, once again, the weather was not particularly cooperative. The threat of rain was ever present. We did manage to have a nice stroll and were still able to take in some of the area’s natural beauty, passing rainclouds and all. One advantage to cruddy weather was the distinct lack of humanity. This adds a nice touch to the desolate scenery.