Shangri-La (Lo Manthang Region of Mustang, Nepal) Part IV

Nov 20^th, 2009 – Coincidence, anyone? Shortly after returning to Kathmandu from Mustang my friend Tim came across an article on National Geographic’s News website titled “Shangri-La” Caves Yield Treasures, Skeletons, detailing an excavation of some of the mysterious caves dotting the mountains throughout Upper Mustang. I was desperate for information. Now I have some. This article was posted on Nov 17^th. I returned from my trip on the 16^th. Their corresponding PBS special aired on the 18^th (scroll to bottom). K-K-K-Koooooky! Had I read this before I departed I would have donned my Spiderman costume and started spelunking my balls off. Perhaps, it is better this way.

During the ‘60s after the Chinese tightened their grip on Tibet and the Dalai Lama went for a stroll from which he never returned Mustang was a hotbed of insurgency against the Chinese led by  Khampas, Tibet’s most ferocious warriors. At the height of operations there were thought to be at least 6000 soldiers in the area, as well as adjoining regions (such as Dolpo). Not surprisingly they initially had the support of the CIA (God Bless America). Everything changed when Kissinger and Nixon decided it was to time to play kissy-grabass with Mao in an effort to improve relations. After that the insurgency fizzled (with the aid of a taped plea from the Dalai Lama making the case for peaceful resistance) and, fortunately for the residents of Mustang, the 10,000 Nepali troops sent to ‘settle’ the issue became superfluous.

I did not realize that the mountains of Mustang house one of the planet's most elusive creatures, the quasi-mythical snow leopard. Had I realized this before my trip I may have insisted, at the very least, on some half-assed attempt to locate one. As I deemed Ram in no mood to chase windmills I had to content myself with wistful glances toward the heavens. Somewhere up there this feline deity was skulking about the rooftop of the world in search some form of fulfillment. In that respect I suppose we were alike. Perhaps, someday our paths will cross. Heeeeeere kitty, kitty, kitty.......