Chhukung (Chukhung) Valley (Three Passes Trek, Nepal) Part III

March 25^th, 2010 - I arrived in the village of Chhukung around mid-day, secured a room, and sat in the sun room (a dining area with windows for walls and a roof that captures heat from the sun) of the Chhukung 'Resort' soaking up more ridiculous views. A couple of notes here. The term 'village' is a tad misleading as many of the stops along the way through the Everest Region are nothing more than a small collection of guesthouses erected specifically to service trekkers. And many use words like resort, hotel, and lodge but contain nothing more than the basics. That is not to say they are not comfortable in their own unique way, just that they lack the type of luxury their names may imply.

The Chhukung valley is absolutely stunning. I sat in the sun room, sipping overpriced tea, and basking in the magnificence. I had the rest of the day to kill. The following day would be a saunter up Chhukung Ri followed by my crossing of the Kongma La the day after that. Giddy as a school girl.

Shortly after I arrived I met an Englishman and a Frenchman who had just crossed the Kongma La from the other direction (starting in the village of Loboche). This was good news as I was a little bit afraid that I might be the first a-hole to cross the pass this season. So much for my trailblazing aspirations.

Gokyo to Lukla via Renjo La (Three Passes Trek, Nepal) Part VII

April 1^st, 2010 - I mentioned that it was beginning to snow as I crossed the glacier and made my way to Gokyo. Well, it did not stop for a while and I estimate that by the time it was over last least six inches (fifteen centimeters) was dumped upon the region. I love snow as much as the next guy but I still had another mountain pass to cross so I found the weather developments decidedly inconvenient. When I awoke the next morning I thought my designs on the Rengo La would be foiled.

A snow covered trail solo in the Himalayas? I might be crazy but I isn't stupid……probably. However, Lady Luck would have a hand in my forward progress. From the window in the sun/dining room of my lodge I watched as a group of tourists led by what I presume to be their guide and seven yaks made their way towards the pass. Although I was slightly astonished by this I was also supremely grateful as they would blaze a trail through the snow that would be easy to follow, assuming no more snowfall of course. Score.

I was also thankful for having crossed the Ngozumpa Glacier the previous day as doing so on the following day would have been near nigh impossible, at least without a guide. I had little hope of seeing the Other Rich again as I was quite certain that he would not be crossing the glacier but instead skip Goyko and head south towards Lukla via another trail. Wrong again.