Somewhere Over The Himalaya

Tengboche to Dingboche (Three Passes Trek, Nepal) Part II

March 23^rd, 2010 - The night I spent in Tengboche was an entertaining one. I met some folks from Ireland, Belgium, England, and the Netherlands. It was the conversation with the young Dutch woman that sticks in my mind. She was traveling alone albeit with a guide and porter. Apparently the guide was…how shall I say…a bit clingy. He was upset with her because they were not spending enough quality time together. Sure.

She was staying at the adjacent guesthouse and because we were at the start of the season she happened to be the only occupant. Our guesthouse was a hotbed of socialization so it is no surprise that she wanted to meet folks. Her guide was not amused. He did not seem to understand that spending all of her time in a dark lodge while having a conversation in broken English was not the Himalayan adventure she was seeking. Imagine that. They had a 'come to Jesus' heart to heart where he asked her if she wanted another guide. Tears were shed….by him. She managed to mollify him and all was well but she was walking an amorous tightrope.

You may think this scenario sounds exceptionally bizarre. It is not. As far as many Nepali men are concerned female westies (as I like to call them) are considered to be the romantic Holy Grail, especially when they are fetching, as the young Dutch lass in fact was. She told me that they had spent the day together in Kathmandu on a sightseeing tour. I explained to her that it probably meant he was in love with her….literally.

Chhukung (Chukhung) Valley (Three Passes Trek, Nepal) Part III

March 25^th, 2010 - I arrived in the village of Chhukung around mid-day, secured a room, and sat in the sun room (a dining area with windows for walls and a roof that captures heat from the sun) of the Chhukung 'Resort' soaking up more ridiculous views. A couple of notes here. The term 'village' is a tad misleading as many of the stops along the way through the Everest Region are nothing more than a small collection of guesthouses erected specifically to service trekkers. And many use words like resort, hotel, and lodge but contain nothing more than the basics. That is not to say they are not comfortable in their own unique way, just that they lack the type of luxury their names may imply.

The Chhukung valley is absolutely stunning. I sat in the sun room, sipping overpriced tea, and basking in the magnificence. I had the rest of the day to kill. The following day would be a saunter up Chhukung Ri followed by my crossing of the Kongma La the day after that. Giddy as a school girl.

Shortly after I arrived I met an Englishman and a Frenchman who had just crossed the Kongma La from the other direction (starting in the village of Loboche). This was good news as I was a little bit afraid that I might be the first a-hole to cross the pass this season. So much for my trailblazing aspirations.

Kongma La (Three Passes Trek, Nepal) Part IV

March 26, 2010 - I left Chhukung around 6 am, not long after dawn began casting its silvery glow upon the mountains in the valley. The Lonely Planet trekking guide allots nine hours for the journey from Chhukung to Lobuche, on the other side of the Kongma Pass. I can normally shave an hour or two off the book's timetable but I had to account for the 'Wait! Where the f*** am I" factor so I left at first light. I have to admit it, I was a bit nervous.

Being alone does not bother me and my fear of getting lost was minimal.  My trepidation was more about all the little things that could happen, things that might be fairly innocuous when you have company but could turn malignant when going solo…..like getting hit by a meteorite. No, not really. I am thinking more of a broken ankle or semi-serious cut or scrape. Bringing a buddy does have its advantages. But then again, if I waited for a partner every time I wanted to go for an adventure I'd be stalking bovine in a pasture near my house with a safari hat on. Nobody wants that.

The early morning went well. The skies were blue, the air fresh, and the scenery heart-stopping as usual. Without wind a Himalayan valley can be remarkably quiet and take on a mysterious if not ghostly quality. At times like that it is not difficult to make believe you are the only person of the planet. No complaints. The sensation was sublime.

Everest Base Camp (Three Passes Trek, Nepal ) Part V

March 27^th, 2010 - I am going to make a slight departure from my Himalayan narrative to relay current events. As I walked the streets of Thamel, Kathmandu recently I was approached by a Nepali gentleman that appeared eager to speak with me. This is not out of the ordinary as trekking guides, travel agency employees, street hawkers, beggars, and even students wishing to engage those of the foreign persuasion often approach.

This guy was a little different as he failed to speak for moments after first approaching me. I thought this a little awkward but I am pretty used to awkward so no biggie. After the silent pause the conversation went like this (keep in mind this all occurs while I continue walking):

Kala Pattar to Dzongla (Three Passes Trek, Nepal) Part VI

March 28^th, 2010 - Kala Pattar is the place from which to view Mt. Everest. Anybody who is anybody goes there to get their panoramic fix. I am not just anybody. I'm Ploomer. I have a plight. You think I won't, but then again I might. From the Upstate hood, with my homies I'm tight. Intruders from Bulgaria I fight (see a previous post for context). Turn darkness into light. Go fly a kite. Fill my enemies with fright…..sorry I just blinked out of reality momentarily. Must be the altitude.

Gotta see the sunrise. Everyone's just gotta see the sunrise. Everywhere in the world you have to get there for the sunrise. It's cloudy? You're sick? The earth's magnetic poles just switched thereby auguring in the end of days? Doesn't matter. Gotta see the sunrise. To do otherwise would make you a complete a-hole. You don't want to be an a-hole, do you? As it happens, notwithstanding the brilliant reflection of matutinal (I'm a big fan of word of the day) light off the nearby mountains (probably worth the trip in its own right), the morning is not a great to time to see Everest. Sure, the chances of clear weather are increased but the sun rises from behind the face itself thereby blanketing Everest, Nuptse, and Lhotse in darkness.