Shiny Happy People (Chittagong, Bangladesh)

Feb 6^th, 2010 - On Jan 31^st I left Bandarban and headed back to the city of Chittagong. My main reason for lingering in this town was my interest in getting a peak at the infamous ship-breaking yards just north of the city. Once upon a time wandering the shoreline and snapping photos of this area was fairly easy. Not so anymore. These yards are extremely controversial and are seen as a threat to public health, the environment, and the lives of workers employed there. Not too hard to imagine why tearing apart an ocean going supertanker with sledge hammers and blow torches might be a bit dodgy. The operations exist in the developing world (India, Bangladesh, Turkey, Pakistan, etc.) for one reason. It is not a profitable operation in the developed world where regulations get in the way and drive up the price. Not a problem in Chittagong.

I'd read that seeing the area is 'virtually impossible' in the Lonely Planet. Really. It seems folks have become a bit skittish on account of all the hubbub in the press the last few years. I did meet a French couple that met with moderate success in getting a peak. After being turned away at several yards they were finally allowed entry. However, after a few pictures they were told to put away the camera and their exposure was limited. I ran into an Australian fellow at my hotel in Chittagong who also gained entry and managed to snap a few photos with a small camera. This made me a little bit more optimistic but I wanted more than just a few quick shots. I figured I might have to go 007.

At my hotel I met a young male employee that offered to get me up close and personal with the shipyards the following morning. His English was limited and I was a bit skeptical about his ability to get me in but I agreed. What did I have to lose, right? He told me he had a friend working there now and that pictures would be no problem. Intriguing isn't it?

Abandon Ship - Chittagong Ship Breaking Yards (Bangladesh)

On Feb 1^st I made my way to the ship-breaking yards north of Chittagong along with my guide Rahmat, an employee at my hotel. After breakfast I found Rahmat waiting for me in front of the hotel along with a CNG (autorickshaw). We hopped in and were on our way. Although I was skeptical, Rahmat assured me he could gain access to a section of the shipyards lining the shore and, more importantly, provide me with an opportunity to take as many photos as I liked. My original plan was to make my way North of Chittagong solo with only a small compact camera and a shitload of perseverance. But as luck would have it I met Rahmat. 

Not only did my new friend claim to have a pal working there he told me he himself spent three months as an employee. After a half hour drive we took a left down a dirt road that snaked through a village area and eventually ended at some makeshift corrugated tin shops catering to shipyard workers. He told me to wait in the CNG while he surveyed the situation and recommended I hide my camera (larger one) until we were closer. I did as he suggested and wore my camera under my shirt. Bond. James Bond.

A few moments later he ushered me forward and we walked together through a tin barricade towards the shore. Surprisingly, nobody stopped us. At any moment I expected someone to intervene and send my ass packing. It did not happen.

And there I was. All along the shore as far as I could see were gargantuan vessels in varying stages of deconstruction stranded in the mud. Absolutely amazing. I'd entered a new world. We approached a group of gentlemen that appeared to hold some sort of oversight capacity. Again I was expecting at any moment some form of protest by a foreman or supervisor but it did not come. I was under the impression that strangers with cameras were not popular. These operations are magnets for bad press (and for good reason).

Abandon Ship - Chittagong Ship Breaking Yards (Bangladesh) - Duplicate

Feb 7^th, 2010 - On Feb 1^st I made my way to the ship-breaking yards north of Chittagong along with my guide Rahmat, an employee at my hotel. After breakfast I found Rahmat waiting for me in front of the hotel along with a CNG (autorickshaw). We hopped in and were on our way. Although I was skeptical, Rahmat assured me he could gain access to a section of the shipyards lining the shore and, more importantly, provide me with an opportunity to take as many photos as I liked. My original plan was to make my way North of Chittagong solo with only a small compact camera and a shitload of perseverance. But as luck would have it I met Rahmat. 

Not only did my new friend claim to have a pal working there he told me he himself spent three months as an employee. After a half hour drive we took a left down a dirt road that snaked through a village area and eventually ended at some makeshift corrugated tin shops catering to shipyard workers. He told me to wait in the CNG while he surveyed the situation and recommended I hide my camera (larger one) until we were closer. I did as he suggested and wore my camera under my shirt. Bond. James Bond.

A few moments later he ushered me forward and we walked together through a tin barricade towards the shore. Surprisingly, nobody stopped us. At any moment I expected someone to intervene and send my ass packing. It did not happen.

And there I was. All along the shore as far as I could see were gargantuan vessels in varying stages of deconstruction stranded in the mud. Absolutely amazing. I'd entered a new world. We approached a group of gentlemen that appeared to hold some sort of oversight capacity. Again I was expecting at any moment some form of protest by a foreman or supervisor but it did not come. I was under the impression that strangers with cameras were not popular. These operations are magnets for bad press (and for good reason).